WCHL

,

Ask the Electrician: Sizing Up Generators

,

Q: What size generator do I need for whole home protection?

Hurricane season is over but the possibility of winter weather is looming ahead. Whole home generators are a big investment but can offer a lot of peace of mind in the event the power is out. We are becoming increasingly dependent on having reliable electricity as modern homes generally have more appliances/electronics and we work or school from home more. Many homeowners consider a whole home generator at some point so let’s talk a little about the different types and factors that impact the overall cost. Generac is by far the leading brand of whole home generators so we will look mainly at their offerings and models.

The first step is of course a load calculation to look at the kW or size of generator required for your home, this will factor in appliances, current power service and any exceptions for gas powered appliances, as well as other needs. In the most basic terms, we find homes under 2000 sq. ft. are considering a 14-18 kW generator and homes over 2000 sq. ft. are more likely somewhere between 22-26 kW as a baseline. It often makes sense to “size up” when in doubt because a larger generator may run more efficiently than one that is “barely enough”. The cost difference is often negligible given other fixed costs and also allows for any future increases in demand.

Additional Cost Factors:

A whole home generator isn’t a small investment. In addition to the cost of the generator there are a number of other costs that impact the overall project. These cost considerations are often overlooked as the focus tends to be about discussing only the kW or “size” of the generator but they often impact buying decisions as they are mostly a fixed cost regardless of “what size” generator you decide on.

Be sure to consider the cost of items like:

  • Installation or upgrades to Liquid Propane or Natural Gas tanks and lines to connect the generator

  • Location of the generator and accessibility to both fuel source and the electrical panel

  • Cost associated with the transfer switch

  • Permit fees & inspections

  • Any panel or service upgrades needed in order to connect the generator

  • Future repairs and maintenance costs over the life of the generator

Air-Cooled Guardian Series:

This is by far the most common residential whole home generator made by Generac and our go to solution for most of our customers. Currently these units range in size from 14 kW – 26 kW and are specifically designed for residential usage. They are incredibly reliable and covered by a 5 year warranty.

Liquid Cooled Protector Series:

These units are most often seen for commercial/small business uses or large homes that may have multiple buildings that need back up power. They are significantly more expensive for both initial costs as well as maintenance. They range in size from 22 kW all the way to 150 kW.

Smaller Air Cooled Models:

There is an air-cooled 7 kW PowerPact available as well as a 10 kW Guardian but consumer demand is shifting to larger “whole house” systems. Given the overall costs of a whole home generator most people are opting for systems that can provide power for the entire home rather than the partial protection offered by these smaller units.

Eco-Gen Models:

There is also some new technology out for eco-friendly home generators designed to work with solar, wind or off-grid homes. As power supply technologies change these options will likely expand but currently this is only available as a 15 kW model.

Portable Generators:

Never forget, there are also plenty of options for gasoline powered portable generators and many homeowners will opt for this budget friendly solution by adding a transfer switch. This is a good option for households that just need to power a few essentials for shorter outages and many homeowners may already have one for other recreational uses.

The first step towards any generator project is an on-site evaluation and discussion about the goals, needs or expenses specific to your home.

Return to Generators

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Sizing Up Generators

,

Ask the Electrician: Lighting Watts and Lumens

,

Q: What is the difference between watts and lumens?

Daylight Savings has arrived and the days are shorter and darker. This time of year we are all spending more time inside and looking to our lighting to keep things bright and chase away the darkness.

As lighting technology has become more efficient there has been a shift in terminology that can leave many consumers at a loss when selecting new bulbs and fixtures. In the days of the incandescent bulb it was common to select and discuss lights by the watts (actually Watt Hours) but new LED bulbs are more likely to refer to a lumen rating for output. 

Watts: Measures of Usage

Skipping a full physics explanation, many of the modern terms used to describe power usage originated during the industrial revolution as the world started to define relationships between power and time/output. The term watt was named after Scottish inventor James Watt. (He also coined the term horsepower in an effort to describe the power created by his improved steam engines to the public.)

In simple terms a watt is simply a measure of power produced. For electric light bulbs the term watts is commonly used to describe watt-hours (Wh) or the amount of energy used to power the bulb for an hour.

Cost was important:

As indoor electricity became commonplace, the cost of electricity was significantly higher than today so it made sense to discuss lights in terms of the energy or costs incurred.

For the consumer in 1880, the cost to run a 100Wh bulb for an hour was the equivalent of 3 hours of work, whereas today it is only seconds of labor for the same hour. (Reference: Statista.com)

Lumens: Measures of Output

As modern lighting has become more efficient the terminology is changing to focus more on measures of output than power usage. Here enters the lumen. Instead of a measure of cost a lumen is a measure of output of visible light.  

LED lighting today us roughly 7 times more efficient than incandescent bulbs so manufacturer’s are shifting their focus and labeling bulbs to reflect the amount of light produced rather than energy consumed. In addition modern LED bulbs last longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.

LED bulbs are simply more efficient at producing light/lumens with the same watt usage than incandescent, halogen or CFL bulbs. An incandescent bulb produces about 12-18 lumens per watt while modern LED can range anywhere from 75-100 lumens per watt depending on manufacturer and quality of the technology. 

Determining Lumen Requirements:

A simple chart or online calculator may be the easiest way to determine lumen requirements if you are replacing a single bulb that you are satisfied with. For more detailed lighting projects or upgrades to overall design you may want to look at the purpose of the room and/or fixture.  

Factors like square footage, room or fixture purpose as well as color range of the light emitted can have a big impact on selecting a light fixture.

What’s Next:

Once you understand the basics of lumen output and have determined your needs it’s important to look at the color range and type of lighting you would like to have.  We will talk about that next - stay tuned!

Return to Home Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Lighting Watts and Lumens

,

Ask the Electrician: Lighting Temperatures and Types

,

Q: What color temperature and what type of light should I get?

Lights and basic lighting design become even more crucial during the longer nights of winter. We have talked about lumens as the amount of light provided by different bulbs and fixtures but this is not the only factor in selecting lighting.

Color Temperature:

Most light fixtures and bulbs will include information about the color of the light emitted based on the Kelvin scale. Kelvin is a measurement of thermodynamic temperature. Visually, lower Kelvin ratings appear warmer and have a red/yellow tint while higher ratings appear cooler and have more blue. Lights with the same lumen output appear completely differently to our eye based on the Kelvin or color temperature. Most residential indoor lighting commonly ranges from 2500K-6500K.

The temperature of the light helps to define what the space is used for. In general lower/warmer temperatures as used in living spaces and bedrooms. Kitchens & bathrooms are often mid-range or daylight temperatures, while offices and workspaces like countertops benefit from cooler color ranges.

New LED light fixtures often have adjustable color range settings so homeowners can select the temperature that they prefer based on the space or use desired. Individual bulbs are often labeled as warm white, daylight or cool white and should provide a Kelvin rating as well. Combining the color temperature with the type or goal of the lighting fixture is key to making the most of spaces and rooms in your home.

Types of Lighting:

Lighting and interior design typically look at three main types of lighting for any given room or space; general lighting, accent lights and task lighting. The best lit rooms often combine two if not all three of these elements to create a rich and welcoming environment as well as the functionality of defined the purpose of a given room or space.

  • General or Ambient Lighting is used to simply provide basic illumination to the space. It is often a lower level or baseline of needed light for the room and often the first to be turned on upon entering a room. Commonly these are ceiling fixtures, floor lamps or can lights.  As a rule, ambient lighting is often warmer/lower Kelvin range.

  • Accent Lights do exactly that - they provide additional light and direct attention to a specific area or feature.  It could be artwork, a fireplace or to draw attention to the kitchen island.  Often these are wall sconces, pendants or up-lights that are closer to a neutral mid range or daylight Kelvin temperature.

  • Task Lighting is often the brightest and provides extra light for workspaces and areas like offices, kitchens and bathroom vanities. These are often under cabinet lights, desk lamps, spotlights and other directed lights.  Task lighting is often a cooler, higher Kelvin rating.

Which is Best?

Lighting decisions are a huge matter of personal preference. Don’t be afraid to experiment! Even swapping out a few light bulbs for a warmer or cooler color or more/less lumens can have a huge impact on your home. Feel like that one corner is always a little dark? Redoing your office and need a better option for your workstation?  Consider adding an additional or different type light fixture. A different light, new bulbs or more defined type light fixture can really change a space.

Buying & Installing Fixtures:

A majority of our customer chose to purchase their own fixtures. There are a ton of options and selections to chose from across a wide range of price points.  Dynamic Electric can help you install any new fixtures or simply update older ones.

Return to Home Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Lighting Temperatures and Types

,

Ask the Electrician: Can I DIY?

,

Q: What kinds of projects do you recommend for DIY?

Plenty of homeowners are taking on DIY projects for themselves to both save money and just for the enjoyment of completing tasks on their own.  For safety reasons it can be hard to determine what electrical projects are best to complete yourself and which ones require an electrician.  If you have any doubts it is best to contact a licensed electrician, better safe than sorry!

Be sure to give some thought to your experience level and knowledge before taking on any electrical DIY projects. Some homeowners are comfortable doing some basic small projects such as swapping out a light fixture, replacing an outlet or installing low voltage lighting and other will opt to call a professional every time.  Many of these small projects have great tutorials and other online resources that can be reviewed beforehand.

Safety First:

Anytime you are working with electricity, the safest thing to do is to turn the power off both at the wall switch as well as turning off the breaker inside your electrical panel. Always double check that the circuit is off before doing any work, never assume it is off. Check and double check to avoid the risk of shocking yourself or shorting out other wiring or appliances.

Invest in a few good tools for the project:

Some basic electrical tools are nice to have on hand even for smaller projects. We recommend starting with the following:

  • Circuit Tester

  • Lineman Pliers

  • Wire Strippers

  • Good Quality Wire Nuts

Look & Label:

If you are replacing a fixture or outlet be sure to look carefully at how the original is put together before removing any wires or taking things apart. Making labels or taking photos can save a lot of headaches when it is time to put things back together.

Some things are best left to an electrician:

Obviously there are plenty of projects that even a knowledgeable homeowner should call an electrician for. If you do not feel absolutely comfortable with your task it’s better to call a professional. We strongly advise against any DIY projects that involve the following:

  • Anything with the Main Electrical Panel

  • Any outlet or appliance that is sparking

  • Anything affecting the main service feed to your home

  • Wires or cables that are spliced, damaged or look burned

  • Any projects that require bonding or grounding to other systems                                                                                    

Not feeling comfortable:

It’s fine to change your mind and decide to ask for help. For obvious liability reasons can’t “talk you through” a project or answer questions over the phone but are happy to schedule a service call or estimate and take over a project if you decide that DIY isn’t for you!

Return to Home Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Can I DIY?

,

Ask the Electrician: Service Upgrades

,

Q: Do I need to upgrade my electrical service?

It’s not a secret homes have gotten bigger and we all have more modern appliances that use energy. According to the US Census bureau the median size of a new home was over 2300 square feet, this has almost doubled since 1970 and many areas homes are even larger. 

Most homeowners only realize they need more service when they want to make additions or improvements. Lights dimming when your HVAC turns on or the main breaker tripping may be an indicator that your service is at its limit.  Your panel box may appear full and not have room for additional breakers.

You can identify your current service level by looking at the main breaker in your electrical panel. Normally homes have 200amp service but this often depends on when your home was built.

  • Prior to 1965: Many older homes were equipped with as little as 60amp when constructed, it is very likely they have already been upgraded to at least 100amp, depending on when remodeling took place.

  • Homes built 1965-1980: 100amp was standard with the decade between 1970-1980 acting as a transition period to 200amp being the norm.

  • Post 1980: 200amp service is standard.  One exception to this rule of thumb is garage conversions and other structures that have been modified to become residential units may still have 100amp service. (Mostly garage conversions and in-law suites.)  Some larger homes have 400amp service already provided.

How much do I need?

If you have less than 200amp service, you should consider upgrading your service. Even with 200amp service your home may be reaching it’s limit.  If you are planning to remodel or add new appliances, you may discover that your current service isn’t enough.  Here are some common additions and upgrades when homeowners may discover they need to upgrade their service. Note: Breaker size does not directly dictate the service amperage usage - this is done with a load calculation but it can be an indicator of larger draws on your electrical service.

  • Hot tubs & Jacuzzis: require a dedicated 50amp breaker to heat water and run jets.

  • Upgrades to HVAC systems: dedicated 50-60amp breaker and split systems may need more than one breaker.

  • EV chargers: Level 2 home chargers need a dedicated 50amp breaker (sometimes higher), we are seeing more of these as electric vehicles become more common.

  • Electric on-demand hot water heaters: 40-50amp dedicated breaker, especially impactful if homeowners are keeping a standard hot water heater alongside the on-demand one.

Other considerations for upgrading service:

  • What is your current wiring situation? Older systems or cloth wrapped wires may need additional work to meet current building codes.

  • If you have an interior fuse box rather than a modern breaker type panel, you may need to make this a sub panel when upgrading service.

  • Are your utilities underground or overhead? Code requirements for underground wiring are already rated for up to 200amp service. Overhead connections can require upgrades to accommodate the higher service amperage.

  • Do you need additional space in your electrical panel? Because the electrical panel most often will be replaced as part of the service upgrade, now is a great time to consider adding additional space in the panel for future projects or splitting any circuits that may be overloaded.

The process:

Service upgrades require permits and coordination with your electrical provider but once everything is in place the process is fairly simple. In Chapel Hill, service lines must be underground so may require trenching or other yard work to be done ahead of time.  Once any prep work is done, most service upgrades can be done in a day. The power will be turned off during the installation but can normally be back on the same day. A new meter base and electrical panel is installed and connected to your existing wiring. Once installation is complete, the work is inspected and power is restored.

If you have questions about your existing service or are thinking of adding a major appliance that requires a large dedicated breaker, contact us for an estimate and let’s discuss your options and needs.

Return to Home Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Service Upgrades

, ,

Ask the Electrician: Project Planning, The Supply Chain and You

, ,

Q: How far in advance do I need to plan my electrical projects?

Planning is key for any project especially if more than one trade is involved or a permit is required. In general even smaller electrical projects are taking a bit longer these days.  It’s certainly not all bad news, home projects are increasing and it feels like life is slowly returning to normal but it does mean that the planning stage is becoming even more important than ever.

Supply Chain:

Supply chain shortages are all the rage right now in the news but they are also having a very real impact on getting electrical projects completed. We are seeing shortages on availability of some key materials required for even simple jobs. Some items are backordered just a few weeks and some have become almost impossible to find.

One of the things impacting our panel and service upgrades is the nationwide shortage of meter bases.  It’s normally a matter of ordering the meter base and they would be delivered in a day or two. Currently there is a nationwide shortage, we are ordering them up to several months in advance and trying to stockpile them for future work. The cost has doubled and because the supply is limited we are seeing price gouging from some vendors.

It’s not just big-ticket items facing a supply shortage; it’s little things as well. While the majority of the common breakers are still available we are seeing modest shortages or delays in more specialty breakers and can no longer rely on simply stopping at the parts house to pick them up. Rather than a simple stop, these items are now often back-ordered for a week or more, which can delay a job and require multiple visits on our end.

Cost Increases:

From groceries to gas, its no secret things are a bit more expensive these days, as electricians, we are seeing it as well. Almost all electrical supplies and parts have increased in price and some have increased dramatically.

Some basics like wire and GFCI outlets have increased by as much as 50%. That meter base that was $50 (that we can’t get) is likely to be closer to $100. Minor price increases are a part of life but the current trend is having a big impact on our customers and us alike. If customers are supplying parts of fixtures like lights we suggest ordering them ahead of time both to secure better pricing and also make sure you have them when you are ready to install.

Permit and Inspection Timing:

Local permitting offices are feeling the squeeze as well. The time for getting a permit issued feels like it has almost doubled in many municipalities as local permit offices are facing the same labor shortages as many other businesses.  This impacts the inspection process as well. Inspectors are frequently fully booked and require more lead-time to call in inspections for a job. If there are multiple stages to the inspection, this can easily add days to a project and interfere with other trades scheduling.

Scheduling:

Overall we have seen the number of local electricians decline as small businesses struggled with the pandemic. Dynamic Electric has been fortunate to have retained both our team as well as found our way through the changes of the past two years. That means we are busy!  Our last minute/emergency slots fill quickly and we are generally scheduling most estimates and jobs about two weeks out depending on the week. Many other trades are experiencing this as well so overall coordination can take more effort.

We really encourage customers who are thinking about an upcoming project to go ahead start to make plans now. Doing an estimate ahead of time allows us to prepare for any known parts and materials that might be hard to find as well as letting customers know pricing and timeframes involved. We’re finding that more than ever some pre-planning is the key to a smooth running project.

If you are thinking about a Spring project, now is a great time to get the process started.

Return to Home Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Project Planning, The Supply Chain and You

, ,

Ask the Electrician: Chasing Codes

, ,

Q: Who determines electrical code and inspection requirements in NC?

Electrical codes and inspection requirements apply to both new construction as well as remodeling or repair work. Code requirements all vary for new or existing residential homes as well as for commercial buildings. Most code is safety related and designed to bring modern safety standards to existing homes as well as new construction and commercial buildings alike. 

For a homeowner, it can be frustrating and confusing to determine what the current code or requirements actually are. There is no single listing of all code and inspection requirements and it often requires cross-referencing several areas to determine what is actually required by law.

There are actually multiple entities that dictate electrical code or inspection requirements for any given project:

National Electrical Code – NFPA 70: Current version is NEC 2020, published in September 2019.

This is commonly referred to as the National Code Book, it is part of a set of code and safety standards published by the National Fire Protection Agency.  It is used in all 50 states and serves as a standard for safe electrical design, installation and inspection. The NEC is revised every three years and then sent to the individual states to be reviewed and accepted. It does not go into effect until the individual state has reviewed and accepted it.

NC State Electrical Code - amended NEC 2020 accepted November 2021.

This state level agency (North Carolina Office of State Fire Marshall) is responsible for setting state specific amendments and exceptions to the NEC standards. These state specific codes can over-ride standards set by the NEC. Codes may be exempted or excluded. Although the NEC 2020 was released in 2019, the amended version was not adopted by North Carolina until November of 2021 after multiple reviews.

Local Municipality Codes or Requirements:

Local cities and/or counties may add their own municipality specific requirements, these standards may not be “less than” any state requirements but may require a higher standard. For example, the town of Chapel Hill has different ordinances for underground lines due to the heavy tree coverage in our area.

  •  Local ordinances are enforced by inspection offices.

State Legislature & Lobby Groups:

These requirements are also subject to statewide legislation and political lobbies.  Different groups like builders associations will use lobbying power to influence changes that may impact affordability or create business disruptions. These groups play a determining factor in the many reviews and amendments that the NEC goes through before being accepted on a state level.

Oversights Committee of NC Department of Insurance

The State Fire Marshall (OSFM) is actually a division of the NC Department of Insurance. The NCDOI handles an oversight committee that regulates the state inspectors.  Through this the NCDOI can add further regulations and requirements that are enforced through the inspections department. These may be stronger standards than are required by the NEC or NC State Electrical Code.

Here are some quick examples of how these different groups influence current codes and requirements:

  • Ground Rods: Since 2008 residential electrical code has required a second grounding rod for any work involving the meter base or service and panel upgrades. In 2021 the oversight committee of the NC Department of Insurance required that in order to pass inspection that existing ground rods could not be used so 2 new ground rods must be installed when completing this work in order to pass inspection.

  • GFCI protection on 240v plug-in appliances: The 2020 NEC requires that any 240v appliance (think car chargers) that is plugged in rather than hardwired must have additional GFCI protection.  There are already some exceptions for things like stoves and ranges but requirement was amended and left out of the NC Electrical Code as of November 2021.

  • Exterior Cut-Off for Mains: This NEC code requires that there must be an exterior accessed shut off for main power to a building. This allows for quicker access to the main power by emergency personnel if needed. In November of 2021, this was amended for NC and only applies to commercial buildings. (Certainly some lobbying influence from the homebuilders association.)

Chasing the Code:

Multiple governing bodies and frequent amendments mean that correct code can feel like a moving target.  Our team does frequent training and review to stay ahead of changing requirements and works hand in hand with our local inspectors to make sure we know what is required for any given project.

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Chasing Codes

,

Ask the Electrician: Holiday Q&A

,

Q: How do I keep electrical costs under control and safe during the holidays?

Tis the season and we are all hopefully making things merry & bright in our homes and with our families. These celebrations come with some extra costs and safety concerns that are easy to manage with a little thought.

Holiday Lights and Decorations:

Overall your holiday light display isn’t likely to break the budget for electrical costs but a little planning can make it a lot smoother and more energy efficient and avoid any faults/tripping breakers.

  • Timers: A timer is a great way to share your holiday light show when friends and neighbors are most likely to enjoy it.  It saves some electrical costs and puts “turning everything off late night” on auto-pilot.

  • Connections and cords: Take special care to keep any connections dry and out of the elements. These connection points are one of the most common causes of a tripped breaker or short in the system.

  •  Outdoor/Wet Ratings: Be sure any exterior lights are both UL listed and outdoor rated. Extension cords should be outdoor rated as well. Lights should be plugged into an exterior GFCI rated outlet.

  •  Trees and indoor displays should be turned off when you are not at home to enjoy them for both safety reasons and to save a bit of electricity.

Consider an upgrade: Most of us only use our holiday lights once a year (except that one “year round” neighbor that we all have), and in general we don’t replace holiday lights and decorations very often. Newer LED lights are both more energy efficient as well as generating less heat reducing the potential for faults. They also offer some cool new features!

Programmable Thermostats:

It’s chilly out and we all want to be comfortable. A programmable thermostat can help keep the house warm when everyone is home and save a bit of energy during the night (when we’re all cozy in bed) or when everyone is away at work. Check with your local energy provider for any tax credits or other credits for installing a programmable thermostat or signing up for off-hours usage for bigger tasks (laundry, dishwashers etc.) at a reduced rate.

Space Heaters:

A little chilly in the back office or upstairs bonus room? Space heaters can be a great way to keep a room extra cozy but should only be run while in the room.  They can consume a fair bit of energy if used for extended periods. Look for models that have an automatic shut off feature if they over heat or are tipped over.

Smoke Detectors:

It goes without saying that every home should have working smoke detectors but before the holidays is a great time to double check that yours are functional and have been tested.  Be sure to check the date on your smoke detector, they should be replaced every 10 years at a minimum. Unfortunately between kitchen accidents, Christmas trees and fireplace hazards, the holidays can be an increased risk for house fires, knowing that your smoke detectors are ready & working is great peace of mind.

Holiday Wishes & Office Hours:

The entire Dynamic Electric team would like to wish you a Happy Holiday and a wonderful New Year! We are sincerely thankful for our customers and the community that we live and work in for bringing us through what has been a couple of very challenging years. We look forward to many bright years ahead.

The office will be closed on December 23-24th as well as December 30th for the holidays.  

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Holiday Q&A

,

Ask the Electrician: Chasing the Dark

,

Q: The shorter days of winter are upon us, what is the best way to light up the night and get more useable light outdoors?

We have just rolled back the clocks are are all adjusting to the shorter days and less hours of daylight. We often get asked about the best gain in useable lights outside without being a nuisance or adding light pollution to the neighborhood.

Dark Sky/ Responsible Lighting Considerations:

You may hear the term “Dark Sky” friendly or compatible when looking at outdoor lighting. This is in its simplest terms a consideration of the amount of excess light pollution created by random exterior lighting that impacts communities and especially semi-rural areas.

Be sure to consider the following five principles for any outdoor lighting at you home:

  • Useful: Outdoor lights should have a clear purpose or intent.

  • Targeted: Lights should be directed/focused only where needed.

  • Controlled: Lights should only be active when being utilized, this cuts down on both unnecessary light pollution as well as saving energy.

  • Low Levels when Possible:  Consider multiple smaller well placed pathway lights vs. a bright flood light, using the lowest light level to be effective for your goal will have a huge impact on your overall light pollution.

  • Use Warmer Colors:  Lights with warmer or “softer” color range reduces the amount of shorter wave “blue-violet” lights and are less impactful on the night sky.

Make a plan:

There are a lot of newer technologies available for adding lights to create great outdoor spaces as well as simply chasing away the dark in your yard. Some time spent researching and planning for what your really want is the first step in adding new lights or replacing older systems.

Pathway Lights:

These can be easy to install low voltage systems or even solar powered and offer the ability to add many smaller lights with a very direct purpose. Creating light along a driveway or walkway is a natural invitation to follow along a given path or add a highlight to an outdoor feature like a patio or garden area.

Motion Detectors:

Motion detectors are nothing new but the technology behind them has improved immensely.  Modern motion detectors are often heat sensitive so have less false alarms (for small creatures like the neighbor’s cat etc.). They also have a better range of sensitivity so can be better directed to activate when needed.

Dimmable or Dual Level Flood/Spot Lights:

Many newer systems offer the ability to have dual levels or dimmable lights for traditional flood or spot light fixtures.  These are great for providing a low level of light (for maybe walking the trash out) or an on demand brighter option (for working in the yard after dark) with the same fixture. Depending on the fixture these can tie in nicely with lights that have a dusk to dawn feature using the lower light setting for dusk to dawn and an option for brighter lights when needed.

Remotes & Timers:

Depending on your existing fixture, you may be able to simply update an existing fixture with a remote control or a timer. When coupled with new LED bulb technology this is an easy way to “upgrade” existing fixtures for better usability and control. 

Buying fixtures:

There are endless lighting options available both at specialty lighting stores, big box stores and of course online.  Do a bit of research to make sure you are spending your money well. Like anything, cheapest isn’t always the best option.

  • UL Listed: make sure anything you purchase is UL certified to meet the minimum safety standards. This is especially important when buying online.

  • Be aware or wet/outdoor certifications for any lights that are outside or in potentially damp locations, even garages can be considered “damp” locations due to the changing humidity levels. These fixtures should normally be GFCI protected as well.

  • Ask questions and be ready to describe your goals for new lighting systems, as electricians we may be able to make suggestions or offer alternatives you haven’t considered.

Almost all of our homes have some sort of outdoor lighting but frequently we simply accept what we already have. Upgrades to exterior lights can make a huge difference, especially in the darker months of the year. Ask if it is time to make some upgrades or add some value to your home to chase away the winter blues!

Return to Home Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Chasing the Dark

,

Ask the Electrician: EV Chargers at Home

,

Q: National Drive Electric Week is being held at the end of this month and electric vehicles are in the news more often. Are they really that popular and how realistic is it to own one?

Currently less than 2% of cars in the US are electric but that is set to change dramatically in the coming years. President Biden just set a goal that 50% of new cars sold in the US will be electric by 2030.  This would mean about 18.7 million Electric Vehicles on the road in 2030 vs a total of about 1.3 million currently.

Electric Vehicles are becoming more and more common with a whole range of models from manufacturers like Kia and Chevrolet to luxury brands like Tesla, BMW and Porsche getting in on the action. According to Car & Driver Magazine there are almost 20 different electric vehicle models available in the US for 2021.

Unlike earlier hybrid models, full electric vehicles rely on increased battery range and the wider availability of EV charging stations if they are going to become more widely accepted. Charging networks are popping up across the country and there are a whole host of phone apps to find them.  Some are a paid service and others are free of charge within communities as a public service.

As electricians we are doing more and more installations of EV Charging systems both for individual homeowners as well as more community based installations like adding Level 2 pedestals in apartment complexes and at shopping centers for public use.

What is the difference in the three charging levels?

For most EV’s there are three different charging speeds available. (Tesla is the exception here with a proprietary SuperCharge not available for other vehicles.)

All electric vehicles come with a Level 1 or “trickle” charger that plugs into a standard three pronged 120V wall outlet. Typically depending on specific model and battery technology charging takes 8-12 hours and is done “overnight” while at home.  These chargers may still require a dedicated 20amp circuit to avoid tripping the breaker if other appliances are plugged into the same circuit and drawing power at the same time.

Level 2 chargers are a common upgrade for most EV owners. They allow for a much quicker charge in a shorter amount of time.  Level 2 chargers can provide a full charge in 6-8 hours by providing 240V power to the vehicle. They will require a larger dedicated circuit, specialty wall plug or hardwire and professional installation by an electrician.

Level 3 chargers are most often found in service centers or gas stations. They require specialty equipment and run on much higher levels of DC power but can provide a charge in as little as an hour. This makes them great for longer road trips and interstate travel.

Which brand or model of charger should I get?

We are happy to install almost any brand of charger. Some vehicles, notably Tesla, have their own specific chargers while other models can use any “standard” charger equipped with a “J plug” (SAE J1772). Clipper Creek is one of the leading names in EV charging equipment and has a wide range of chargers that are highly compatible with different models. They have a great tool on their website, simply enter the vehicle make and model and the site will display all the compatible equipment available.

What does it cost?

Most EV owners upgrade to a Level 2 charger to improve at home charging speeds.  Wall mount installation generally runs from $475-$700 for most simple installs plus the charger cost itself. This depends on the availability of existing power to your garage or charging area and the required amperage needed for the charger. Longer distances, pedestal mounts, digging or trenching and panel upgrades may impact this cost so the best solution is to request a free estimate of your specific needs prior to installation.

National Drive Electric Week is being held September 25-October 3, 2021. The event is a nationwide effort to celebrate and raise awareness about electric vehicles, check out their website for local events and more information.

Return to EV Chargers

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: EV Chargers at Home

,

Ask the Electrician: Generators and Backup Plans

,

Q: Do I really want, or need, a generator for my home?

It’s well into hurricane season, and here in the Triangle the possibility of a hurricane is just a part of summer life. Additionally, this year the news seems full of stories about climate change, weakened power grids and coming energy challenges. Most homeowners have at some point wondered about getting a generator to power their home during an emergency or extended outage and this year is no different. Generators are a big investment, but offer a lot of benefits especially relevant this time of year.

Initial Cost:

A whole home generator with a fully automatic transfer system isn’t a small investment. On average these systems cost between $8,000-$12,000 fully installed. Exact costs depend on a number of individual factors like; the kW or “size” of the generator, existing install location, available fuel sources, permits and setup of the electrical panel in your home.

There are more affordable options, especially if you already have a portable gasoline generator and want to look at just powering a few crucial items like a refrigerator, coffee pot or a few lights.  If this is the case, consider setting up a transfer switch and dedicated circuits for your existing generator. This can be a solid option for many homes for some basic emergency power even if it does require a bit more involvement from the homeowner.

Maintenance & Repairs:

Like any major home system, your generator will need to be properly maintained if you expect it to be ready when you need it the most. Most whole home generators need at least an annual maintenance visit and “test start” to make sure the system starts and runs as intended if the power goes out.

If you live in a more rural area that has frequent power outages or use your generator for other situations, like powering an out-building, we suggest semi-annual maintenance to keep things running smoothly.

In addition to general maintenance, there will be possible repair expenses and replacements for “wear items” like batteries etc. Generac has a solid six-year warranty on all their whole home generators but it does not cover everything. Homeowners should be prepared for some ongoing maintenance & upkeep expenses.

Dynamic Electric offers a discount for our customers with annual service plans starting at $239/year and priority scheduling when possible.

Evaluate Your Family’s Specific Needs:

For some of us a few hours or even a few days without electricity might sound like a candle-lit adventure, for others it can be a nightmare. If you work from home, have a larger family or maybe a family member with medical needs, a generator makes great sense for peace of mind.  Or maybe you just don’t want to worry about food spoiling, summer nights with no A/C or the simple inconvenience factor of a power outage? Every family is different and the best way to start the conversation might be with a free estimate and discussion with our team about what you want to accomplish.

Return to Generators Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Generators and Backup Plans

,

Ask the Electrician: Surge Protection

,

Q: Gone are the days of the power strip protection, what do I need now?

Power surges are a fairly common occurrence, they can originate from lightening strikes, arc faults or minor short circuits within the home or just surges/irregularities from the power supply itself. (This is a common reason for a surge.)

Why is surge protection more important in the “modern” world?

Twenty years ago, our worlds had just a few complex “electronic” devices. Power surges still happened just as frequently but the consequences were not as evident. A blown light bulb does not have the same impact as a suddenly useless smart phone.

Today we have all kinds of “small computers” and sensitive electronics in every room of our homes; kitchen appliances, led lighting fixtures, phones, televisions, actual computers and all the other gadgets of modern life. These sensitive electronics can be easily damaged or completely ruined by a common or even relatively small surge in voltage. Now instead of a few dollars for a new light bulb, you are looking at $600 for a new phone, $1000 for a new TV, $800 to replace the dishwasher, etc. No fun.

I’ve got my electronics on a “power strip” – Why isn’t that enough?

Many of us have surge protected power strips that are great for turning on/off a group of devices but they only protect against smaller surges. Most household level surge are rated as low as 200 joules and up to 3000 joules so can protect from a small surge or “short circuit” but may not stand a chance against a larger surge or lightening strike (A billion joules on average). Additionally they have a limited lifespan and should be replaced every few years, be sure to keep an eye on the indicator light to see if your surge power strip is still providing protection. These devices work well for in an office or media stand but it may not be realistic to use them at every outlet or for smart appliances that are “everywhere” now.

Home Surge Protection:

Whole Home Surge Protectors work by regulating the voltage coming through your main electrical line to your meter or main electrical panel. Voltage spikes and surges are blocked from reaching your appliances by pushing (shorting) the excess voltage to your grounding system. The whole home surge protector acts like a pressure release valve, if excess voltage is sensed on the line, the surge protector stops it and sends it to ground, protecting your home wiring and appliances/devices inside the home.

Costs & Considerations:

Home surge protection is not expensive when you consider the cost of replacing a single major appliance, smart phone or other damaged device. Depending on your needs, home surge protection costs range from about $350-$650. You will need to have a minimum of two empty breaker slots available and space beside the breaker box for the unit itself. The other common addition we see is the need to add a second ground rod to meet current building codes. (If your home was built before 2008, it s common to have only a single ground rod.)

As far as the units themselves, we like Eaton or Intermatic as brands. Homeowners should do some research on available features as well as the warranty and coverage offered by the company should a unit fail before making your choice.

Return to Surge Protection Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Surge Protection

, ,

Ask the Electrician: Permitting, Capital Improvements and More

, ,

Q: What types of jobs need a permit, what is considered a capital improvement, what do I need to know about either of these?

One of the common areas for confusion during any electrical project (or any home improvement project) is the gray area around permitting and capital improvements. It may seem easier to avoid these steps and associated fees to “keep things simple” but in reality the permitting process isn’t hard and offers good protection for improvements made to your home and declaring capital improvements offers the added benefit of saving sales tax.

As a company, Dynamic Electric suggests erring on the side of compliance and correct processing of permits so that any issues or concerns are covered at the time and not popping up in the future. Additionally, you may want to check with your accountant or other professional if you have more complex issues. Be wary of companies that may suggest they can skip these steps and save a few dollars at the time.

Permits:

Permits are the process that both notifies the county/city that you live in that you are doing work and also affirms that the work has been done correctly and meets any building codes. Fees and processes vary a bit from jurisdiction to jurisdiction (city vs. county etc.) but the basic permit is to notify (apply for a permit) and pass the various inspection points as the work is completed. Most inspections, especially if working with a reliable contractor, are simple check-ins to assure the work is complete and up to standards.

Roughly the standard question for if a job requires a permit is to ask if the work is “making a repair” or “one to one change” vs. “replacing/improving a system”. Generally replacing a light fixture, moving an outlet, switching to a ceiling fan does not require a permit.  Larger improvements should be permitted especially if you are expanding or improving a major system.

Permitting can add $125-$600 to a job depending on the level of inspections/size or complexity of the job and city/jurisdiction.  Most contractors (including Dynamic Electric) add a fee to manage the permitting process however homeowners can also elect to mange the process themselves.

The caveat about deciding to manage your own inspections is that it can take a decent amount of homeowner involvement, multiple phone calls and scheduling. Some homeowners are happy to take this on but be sure to weigh the benefits-burden of DIY for each job. (Ask your contractor if it is an option-how it works.)

Capital Improvements:

Depending on the size and scope of your job, you may be asked to complete a Capital Improvement Affidavit.  A capital improvement is generally considered anything that substantially increases the value, extends the useable life or increases use-ability of your home. They can also provide documentation to show that a home or business may have increased in value if you are thinking of selling or refinancing. The biggest benefit if having a CI Affidavit is that you no longer pay sales tax on the labor– that’s around 7.5% in our area!  (In 2016 – the law changed and both services and products are subject to sales tax for most home improvement services.)

Ultimately:

If you have questions about if you job needs a Permit or meets the Capital Improvements standards, be sure to discuss this with your contractor before your job starts. It can make a huge difference in a “smooth process” and will give you good peace of mind in going forward.  As always, let us know if you have questions!

Return to Home Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Permitting, Capital Improvments and More

,

Ask the Electrician: Lighting Up Outdoor Spaces

,

Q: Outdoor spaces and lighting? Low-Voltage Plans:

Summer is here and even with some COVID restrictions lifting we are all more aware of making use of outdoor spaces. Adding outdoor lighting is a great way to make yards, walkways, decks, yards or grill areas more inviting.  Sounds great but where do you start?

Improving your outdoor spaces can be as simple as some ‘stick in the ground’ solar lights from your neighborhood big box store to elaborate landscaping designs that highlight a great tree, to everything in between.

Solar lights are great, eco-friendly and available to everyone who has enough sunlight but low voltage systems offer a lot more options and reliability. Low voltage lights run a huge gamut from simple path lights that plug into an existing outdoor outlet to elaborate systems that are hardwired to a transformer. Newer LED bulb styles mean there are great options for flood or spot light bulbs that rival more expensive 120V fixtures. Automatic timers and motion sensors are widely available in low voltages.

Here are the things to consider for low voltage lighting:

Plan:

Think about your goal, do you want simple path lights to make the driveway bright or are you looking for larger accents to make the backyard more inviting? Are you looking at a plug-in system or do you need a transformer installed? Once you determine what you’re looking for, the other requirements/considerations will fall in line.

Location/Footprint:

Be sure your fixtures and wires will be out of the way of existing maintenance needs; weed-whackers, irrigation lines, high traffic areas etc. Is your plan linear or will you need a “hub” location? How long is the run or length of wiring?

Fixtures:

We like Volt Lighting products for quality & affordability or Kichler for fancier high quality installations but there are plenty of online or big box options. Pay attention to component quality like connectors (remember the connectors live underground and will get wet, frozen and stepped on) and if you want features like timers, motion detectors or multiple voltages.  Like everything, you get what you pay for but low voltage systems can be very affordable for most homes. Working with a single brand/system will result in less potential “compatibility issues”.

Voltage:

Often “low volt” systems provide voltages from 12-24 volts to accommodate different set ups. Make sure your transformer and fixtures are compatible to the voltage available. In general the length, number of fixtures and fixture style may determine what voltage is best. Additionally, upgrading the wires themselves can be another way to add voltage capacity and improve durability.

Trenching/Getting it Done:

Be sure to call 811 before you dig so you don’t cut any existing cable or phone lines. (These are often less than a foot underground.)  It’s a free service and they will mark existing utility lines with paint so you know where they are. Be sure to bury your lines at least 6” below the surface to meet NC Code Requirements.

Consider what types of digging tools you may need, many of us have rocky or hard soil. A few lights may be practical with a shovel/home tools but longer wire runs go faster with a trencher.

Surface mounting to decks, concrete or other hard surfaces can generally be done with a drill and correct fasteners and wires can be enclosed in conduit as needed, so don’t limit your plan to “underground only”.

Anyway you do it, with summer approaching upgrading your exteriors spaces will make the coming months more enjoyable and add value to you home. If you’re not feeling quite up for a full DIY project, or need components like an additional exterior outlet or a transformer installed, give us a call and we are happy to help.  If you don’t want to DIY, we can handle the entire project for you, starting with an estimate/discussion of your plan! Our trencher is ready to go!

Return to Home Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Lighting Up Outdoor Spaces

,

Ask the Electrician: Finding the Right Generator for Your Home

,

Q: I’m thinking about a whole home generator, what things should I consider?

A fact of life in North Carolina is the ever changing weather; from summer storms to icy winters and of course the potential for hurricanes. Power outages range from mere hassle to extended periods without electricity. As a result many homeowners have thought about the convenience of a home generator at least once. Here are some things to consider in that decision process.

Decide what items you want powered by the generator, do you want the entire home available or are you comfortable with partial power for essentials like refrigerators, some lights, small appliances etc. Do you want power for major systems like HVAC? Some people are happy with essentials, but many decide that for the additional expense it’s easier to cover the entire house.

These days most whole home generators come with an automatic transfer switch. This means the generator senses an outage and automatically starts the generator and draws power from there. There is less than a minute of interruption between the outage, the generator starting up and transferring the power from the generator to the house. Hands down these systems are one of the best things about modern home generators.

Unlike portable generators that run on gasoline, home generators run on either natural gas or liquid propane. If you already have service that may make the decision for you. You also need to consider the size of your tank if you go with propane as a fuel.   Think about how long you want the generator to be able to run, depending on Kw and usage a smaller 125lb propane tank may last for a couple days while a larger 500lb. tank will last closer to 5-6 days. Ask for an exact calculation of this when making your decisions.

A whole house generator can be a major investment, depending on the size and installation requirements you can spend an average of $7000-$12,000. Ask for several quotes and talk with providers about your expectations. Make sure you have discussed all the expenses involved:  equipment and installation, upgrades to fuel service, permits, costs to upgrade any old electrical systems or equipment to work with the generator.

Consider maintenance and warranties as well, we recommend a test start and general maintenance visit at least once a year but if you live in an area that loses power more often this might need to be done bi-annually. There’s nothing more frustrating than a generator that doesn’t work when you need it or a warranty that doesn’t cover what you need.

Make sure you are getting on-site estimates to ensure that there are no surprises; such a trenching through the favorite rose garden or insufficient clearances for installation.  With a little time and planning, a whole home generator is a great addition and gives great peace of mind to make power outages a thing of the past.

Return to Generators Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Finding the Right Generator for Your Home

, ,

Ask the Electrician: Preventing Shocks, Faults and Fires

, ,

Q: What is the difference between GFCI and AFCI?

Both of these safety devices are becoming more and more common in our homes. They protect against two major threats caused by electrical ground faults that can cause electric shocks (GFCI) and electrical fires (AFCI).

Most homeowners are familiar with GFCI or Ground Fault Circuit Interruption. As a safety feature, these have been required by building codes since the early 1970s.  GFCI outlets appear commonly in bathrooms, exterior outlets, crawl spaces and other areas that may be exposed to moisture.

Because water can be a conductor, proximity to moisture is a common way that electrical current can leak and result in a ground fault. Exposure to even small increases in current can cause severe or fatal shock hazards. The common visualization here is the hair dryer slipping into the sink or bathtub.  The GFCI senses even these small increases in current and reacts almost immediately (within a tenth of a second) to shut off current to the outlet.

GFCI are easily reset at the outlet with a small reset button. If your GFCI does not reset or continues to trip, you should contact an electrician to determine the problem. Additionally, GFCI switches should be tested periodically to make sure that they are working. As our homes age, existing GFCI outlets may have reached the end of their useful life and need to be replaced.

AFCI or Arc Fault Circuit Interruption provides protection against electrical fires by detecting irregularities in current caused my arc faults.  AFCIs can be installed at a breaker box level or in receptacles that look similar to the more common GFCI outlet.  Both the breakers and the outlets have a reset switch that must be reset if tripped.  AFCI protection started to become a requirement in 2002, primarily for bedrooms and today is a building requirement for most living areas in the home.

Arc faults are most associated with electrical fires because the “arc” can result in sparking and excessive heat that can easily ignite any nearby materials.  Old, frayed appliance cords, loose connections or pinched/punctured wiring can all cause arc faults. The common homeowner accident is nailing into wires in the wall while hanging a picture. Because most electrical wiring is hidden from sight, electrical fires can spread behind walls and present very dangerous conditions not immediately detectable by smoke detectors.

The sensing technology for AFCIs has improved a great deal but older technology was responsible for many complaints of “false tripping” so AFCIs are not as widely accepted or known as GFCI protection. Today homeowners that are updating existing homes, especially older retrofits may need to look at several options for AFCI or a combination of the breaker and outlet styles. This is because appliances, wiring types and AFCI technology have all changed over the years, so retrofitting can require some research and a bit of fine tuning for how all of the components will work together.  Don’t be discouraged if it takes some investigation.

Electrical safety has come a long way and continues to improve. Let us know if you have any questions about either the GFCI or AFCI protection in your home.

Return to Home Page

Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Preventing Shocks, Faults and Fires