Ask the Electrician

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Ask the Electrician: Surge Protection

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Q: Gone are the days of the power strip protection, what do I need now?

Power surges are a fairly common occurrence, they can originate from lightening strikes, arc faults or minor short circuits within the home or just surges/irregularities from the power supply itself. (This is a common reason for a surge.)

Why is surge protection more important in the “modern” world?

Twenty years ago, our worlds had just a few complex “electronic” devices. Power surges still happened just as frequently but the consequences were not as evident. A blown light bulb does not have the same impact as a suddenly useless smart phone.

Today we have all kinds of “small computers” and sensitive electronics in every room of our homes; kitchen appliances, led lighting fixtures, phones, televisions, actual computers and all the other gadgets of modern life. These sensitive electronics can be easily damaged or completely ruined by a common or even relatively small surge in voltage. Now instead of a few dollars for a new light bulb, you are looking at $600 for a new phone, $1000 for a new TV, $800 to replace the dishwasher, etc. No fun.

I’ve got my electronics on a “power strip” – Why isn’t that enough?

Many of us have surge protected power strips that are great for turning on/off a group of devices but they only protect against smaller surges. Most household level surge are rated as low as 200 joules and up to 3000 joules so can protect from a small surge or “short circuit” but may not stand a chance against a larger surge or lightening strike (A billion joules on average). Additionally they have a limited lifespan and should be replaced every few years, be sure to keep an eye on the indicator light to see if your surge power strip is still providing protection. These devices work well for in an office or media stand but it may not be realistic to use them at every outlet or for smart appliances that are “everywhere” now.

Home Surge Protection:

Whole Home Surge Protectors work by regulating the voltage coming through your main electrical line to your meter or main electrical panel. Voltage spikes and surges are blocked from reaching your appliances by pushing (shorting) the excess voltage to your grounding system. The whole home surge protector acts like a pressure release valve, if excess voltage is sensed on the line, the surge protector stops it and sends it to ground, protecting your home wiring and appliances/devices inside the home.

Costs & Considerations:

Home surge protection is not expensive when you consider the cost of replacing a single major appliance, smart phone or other damaged device. Depending on your needs, home surge protection costs range from about $350-$650. You will need to have a minimum of two empty breaker slots available and space beside the breaker box for the unit itself. The other common addition we see is the need to add a second ground rod to meet current building codes. (If your home was built before 2008, it s common to have only a single ground rod.)

As far as the units themselves, we like Eaton or Intermatic as brands. Homeowners should do some research on available features as well as the warranty and coverage offered by the company should a unit fail before making your choice.

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Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Surge Protection

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Ask the Electrician: Permitting, Capital Improvements and More

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Q: What types of jobs need a permit, what is considered a capital improvement, what do I need to know about either of these?

One of the common areas for confusion during any electrical project (or any home improvement project) is the gray area around permitting and capital improvements. It may seem easier to avoid these steps and associated fees to “keep things simple” but in reality the permitting process isn’t hard and offers good protection for improvements made to your home and declaring capital improvements offers the added benefit of saving sales tax.

As a company, Dynamic Electric suggests erring on the side of compliance and correct processing of permits so that any issues or concerns are covered at the time and not popping up in the future. Additionally, you may want to check with your accountant or other professional if you have more complex issues. Be wary of companies that may suggest they can skip these steps and save a few dollars at the time.

Permits:

Permits are the process that both notifies the county/city that you live in that you are doing work and also affirms that the work has been done correctly and meets any building codes. Fees and processes vary a bit from jurisdiction to jurisdiction (city vs. county etc.) but the basic permit is to notify (apply for a permit) and pass the various inspection points as the work is completed. Most inspections, especially if working with a reliable contractor, are simple check-ins to assure the work is complete and up to standards.

Roughly the standard question for if a job requires a permit is to ask if the work is “making a repair” or “one to one change” vs. “replacing/improving a system”. Generally replacing a light fixture, moving an outlet, switching to a ceiling fan does not require a permit.  Larger improvements should be permitted especially if you are expanding or improving a major system.

Permitting can add $125-$600 to a job depending on the level of inspections/size or complexity of the job and city/jurisdiction.  Most contractors (including Dynamic Electric) add a fee to manage the permitting process however homeowners can also elect to mange the process themselves.

The caveat about deciding to manage your own inspections is that it can take a decent amount of homeowner involvement, multiple phone calls and scheduling. Some homeowners are happy to take this on but be sure to weigh the benefits-burden of DIY for each job. (Ask your contractor if it is an option-how it works.)

Capital Improvements:

Depending on the size and scope of your job, you may be asked to complete a Capital Improvement Affidavit.  A capital improvement is generally considered anything that substantially increases the value, extends the useable life or increases use-ability of your home. They can also provide documentation to show that a home or business may have increased in value if you are thinking of selling or refinancing. The biggest benefit if having a CI Affidavit is that you no longer pay sales tax on the labor– that’s around 7.5% in our area!  (In 2016 – the law changed and both services and products are subject to sales tax for most home improvement services.)

Ultimately:

If you have questions about if you job needs a Permit or meets the Capital Improvements standards, be sure to discuss this with your contractor before your job starts. It can make a huge difference in a “smooth process” and will give you good peace of mind in going forward.  As always, let us know if you have questions!

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Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Permitting, Capital Improvments and More

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Ask the Electrician: Lighting Up Outdoor Spaces

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Q: Outdoor spaces and lighting? Low-Voltage Plans:

Summer is here and even with some COVID restrictions lifting we are all more aware of making use of outdoor spaces. Adding outdoor lighting is a great way to make yards, walkways, decks, yards or grill areas more inviting.  Sounds great but where do you start?

Improving your outdoor spaces can be as simple as some ‘stick in the ground’ solar lights from your neighborhood big box store to elaborate landscaping designs that highlight a great tree, to everything in between.

Solar lights are great, eco-friendly and available to everyone who has enough sunlight but low voltage systems offer a lot more options and reliability. Low voltage lights run a huge gamut from simple path lights that plug into an existing outdoor outlet to elaborate systems that are hardwired to a transformer. Newer LED bulb styles mean there are great options for flood or spot light bulbs that rival more expensive 120V fixtures. Automatic timers and motion sensors are widely available in low voltages.

Here are the things to consider for low voltage lighting:

Plan:

Think about your goal, do you want simple path lights to make the driveway bright or are you looking for larger accents to make the backyard more inviting? Are you looking at a plug-in system or do you need a transformer installed? Once you determine what you’re looking for, the other requirements/considerations will fall in line.

Location/Footprint:

Be sure your fixtures and wires will be out of the way of existing maintenance needs; weed-whackers, irrigation lines, high traffic areas etc. Is your plan linear or will you need a “hub” location? How long is the run or length of wiring?

Fixtures:

We like Volt Lighting products for quality & affordability or Kichler for fancier high quality installations but there are plenty of online or big box options. Pay attention to component quality like connectors (remember the connectors live underground and will get wet, frozen and stepped on) and if you want features like timers, motion detectors or multiple voltages.  Like everything, you get what you pay for but low voltage systems can be very affordable for most homes. Working with a single brand/system will result in less potential “compatibility issues”.

Voltage:

Often “low volt” systems provide voltages from 12-24 volts to accommodate different set ups. Make sure your transformer and fixtures are compatible to the voltage available. In general the length, number of fixtures and fixture style may determine what voltage is best. Additionally, upgrading the wires themselves can be another way to add voltage capacity and improve durability.

Trenching/Getting it Done:

Be sure to call 811 before you dig so you don’t cut any existing cable or phone lines. (These are often less than a foot underground.)  It’s a free service and they will mark existing utility lines with paint so you know where they are. Be sure to bury your lines at least 6” below the surface to meet NC Code Requirements.

Consider what types of digging tools you may need, many of us have rocky or hard soil. A few lights may be practical with a shovel/home tools but longer wire runs go faster with a trencher.

Surface mounting to decks, concrete or other hard surfaces can generally be done with a drill and correct fasteners and wires can be enclosed in conduit as needed, so don’t limit your plan to “underground only”.

Anyway you do it, with summer approaching upgrading your exteriors spaces will make the coming months more enjoyable and add value to you home. If you’re not feeling quite up for a full DIY project, or need components like an additional exterior outlet or a transformer installed, give us a call and we are happy to help.  If you don’t want to DIY, we can handle the entire project for you, starting with an estimate/discussion of your plan! Our trencher is ready to go!

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Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Lighting Up Outdoor Spaces

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Ask the Electrician: Finding the Right Generator for Your Home

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Q: I’m thinking about a whole home generator, what things should I consider?

A fact of life in North Carolina is the ever changing weather; from summer storms to icy winters and of course the potential for hurricanes. Power outages range from mere hassle to extended periods without electricity. As a result many homeowners have thought about the convenience of a home generator at least once. Here are some things to consider in that decision process.

Decide what items you want powered by the generator, do you want the entire home available or are you comfortable with partial power for essentials like refrigerators, some lights, small appliances etc. Do you want power for major systems like HVAC? Some people are happy with essentials, but many decide that for the additional expense it’s easier to cover the entire house.

These days most whole home generators come with an automatic transfer switch. This means the generator senses an outage and automatically starts the generator and draws power from there. There is less than a minute of interruption between the outage, the generator starting up and transferring the power from the generator to the house. Hands down these systems are one of the best things about modern home generators.

Unlike portable generators that run on gasoline, home generators run on either natural gas or liquid propane. If you already have service that may make the decision for you. You also need to consider the size of your tank if you go with propane as a fuel.   Think about how long you want the generator to be able to run, depending on Kw and usage a smaller 125lb propane tank may last for a couple days while a larger 500lb. tank will last closer to 5-6 days. Ask for an exact calculation of this when making your decisions.

A whole house generator can be a major investment, depending on the size and installation requirements you can spend an average of $7000-$12,000. Ask for several quotes and talk with providers about your expectations. Make sure you have discussed all the expenses involved:  equipment and installation, upgrades to fuel service, permits, costs to upgrade any old electrical systems or equipment to work with the generator.

Consider maintenance and warranties as well, we recommend a test start and general maintenance visit at least once a year but if you live in an area that loses power more often this might need to be done bi-annually. There’s nothing more frustrating than a generator that doesn’t work when you need it or a warranty that doesn’t cover what you need.

Make sure you are getting on-site estimates to ensure that there are no surprises; such a trenching through the favorite rose garden or insufficient clearances for installation.  With a little time and planning, a whole home generator is a great addition and gives great peace of mind to make power outages a thing of the past.

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Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Finding the Right Generator for Your Home

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Ask the Electrician: Preventing Shocks, Faults and Fires

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Q: What is the difference between GFCI and AFCI?

Both of these safety devices are becoming more and more common in our homes. They protect against two major threats caused by electrical ground faults that can cause electric shocks (GFCI) and electrical fires (AFCI).

Most homeowners are familiar with GFCI or Ground Fault Circuit Interruption. As a safety feature, these have been required by building codes since the early 1970s.  GFCI outlets appear commonly in bathrooms, exterior outlets, crawl spaces and other areas that may be exposed to moisture.

Because water can be a conductor, proximity to moisture is a common way that electrical current can leak and result in a ground fault. Exposure to even small increases in current can cause severe or fatal shock hazards. The common visualization here is the hair dryer slipping into the sink or bathtub.  The GFCI senses even these small increases in current and reacts almost immediately (within a tenth of a second) to shut off current to the outlet.

GFCI are easily reset at the outlet with a small reset button. If your GFCI does not reset or continues to trip, you should contact an electrician to determine the problem. Additionally, GFCI switches should be tested periodically to make sure that they are working. As our homes age, existing GFCI outlets may have reached the end of their useful life and need to be replaced.

AFCI or Arc Fault Circuit Interruption provides protection against electrical fires by detecting irregularities in current caused my arc faults.  AFCIs can be installed at a breaker box level or in receptacles that look similar to the more common GFCI outlet.  Both the breakers and the outlets have a reset switch that must be reset if tripped.  AFCI protection started to become a requirement in 2002, primarily for bedrooms and today is a building requirement for most living areas in the home.

Arc faults are most associated with electrical fires because the “arc” can result in sparking and excessive heat that can easily ignite any nearby materials.  Old, frayed appliance cords, loose connections or pinched/punctured wiring can all cause arc faults. The common homeowner accident is nailing into wires in the wall while hanging a picture. Because most electrical wiring is hidden from sight, electrical fires can spread behind walls and present very dangerous conditions not immediately detectable by smoke detectors.

The sensing technology for AFCIs has improved a great deal but older technology was responsible for many complaints of “false tripping” so AFCIs are not as widely accepted or known as GFCI protection. Today homeowners that are updating existing homes, especially older retrofits may need to look at several options for AFCI or a combination of the breaker and outlet styles. This is because appliances, wiring types and AFCI technology have all changed over the years, so retrofitting can require some research and a bit of fine tuning for how all of the components will work together.  Don’t be discouraged if it takes some investigation.

Electrical safety has come a long way and continues to improve. Let us know if you have any questions about either the GFCI or AFCI protection in your home.

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Ask the Electrician is a column we publish with our advertising partner WCHL/Chapelboro. In “Ask The Electrician,” Scott answers common questions about electrical work, from switches and outlets to safety issues and preventative maintenance. If you have a suggested question for us to answer – or need an electrician – please reach out to our office.

See the article on Chapelboro.com: Preventing Shocks, Faults and Fires